7 Ways To Identify A Pure Kanjivaram Silk Saree

 A Guide to Identifying Pure Kanjivaram Silk Sarees

In the world of traditional Indian attire, Kanjivaram silk sarees stand out as timeless symbols of grace and opulence. Originating from the town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, these sarees are renowned for their rich textures, vibrant colors, and intricate zari work. However, with the market flooded with imitations, replicas and fakes, it's crucial for textile enthusiasts to know how to identify a pure Kanjivaram silk saree. In this guide, we'll explore the key features that distinguish genuine Kanjivaram silk from its counterparts.

1. Silk Quality:

The first and foremost aspect to examine is the silk itself. Pure Kanjivaram silk is made from high-quality mulberry silk threads, known for their strength and sheen. Run your fingers across the fabric – it should feel smooth, soft, and luxurious. Genuine silk will have a natural luster that sets it apart from synthetic or inferior blends. Silk will have a subtle sheen and would not be flashy to eyes. 

2. Zari Work

Zari, or metallic thread, is an integral part of Kanjivaram sarees. Authentic Kanjivaram sarees boast elaborate zari work made from real silver or gold. To check the authenticity, gently rub the zari between your fingers – it should feel pliable, not brittle. If its a real gold or silver zari then try rubbing the back of the saree on a black stone (generally used at local gold shops) and original zari sarees will leave a light gold or silver residue on the stone.

3. Weaving Patterns

The weaving patterns on a Kanjivaram saree are a testament to the skill of the artisans. Look for intricate motifs inspired by nature, temples, and traditional art forms. Genuine Kanjivaram sarees often feature contrast borders and pallus with meticulously crafted designs. Mass-produced imitations may lack the finesse and attention to detail that characterize authentic pieces.

4. Color Purity

Kanjivaram sarees are celebrated for their vibrant and rich colors. When examining a saree, pay close attention to the color saturation. Pure silk absorbs dyes evenly, resulting in deep, intense hues. Additionally, inspect the reverse side of the saree – the colors should be nearly identical on both sides, indicating high-quality dyeing techniques.

5. Weight and Texture

Authentic Kanjivaram silk sarees are known for their substantial weight. The density of the silk contributes to the durability and grandeur of the garment. Run your fingers over the saree to feel its texture – the fabric should be thick and robust, not flimsy or overly delicate. 

6. Selvedge and Pallu

Examine the selvedge (border) and pallu (the loose end of the saree) carefully. Authentic Kanjivaram sarees feature distinctive borders with intricate designs and durable stitching. The pallu often showcases a different or more elaborate pattern than the rest of the saree, adding to its overall allure. Also the width of the kanjiwaram saree is usually longer than usual sarees.

7. Handloom Weaving 

A kanjiwaram textile can only be considered pure if it is woven on a traditional handloom and with pure natural fibres like Silk, Cotton etc. Handloom textiles can be identified checking their selvedges, if the selvedges have rough edges and temple (pin marks) marks on random distance on both sides.


Identifying a pure Kanjivaram silk saree requires a keen eye for detail and an appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. By examining the silk quality, zari work, weaving patterns, color purity, weight, and other key features, you can ensure that you are investing in a genuine piece of art. The timeless elegance of a pure Kanjivaram silk saree transcends fashion trends, making it a cherished addition to any wardrobe.

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